- Title
- The evolution of fashion discourse: examining vogue magazine’s role as fashion authority
- Creator
- Wissink, Emma Seline
- Subject
- Fashion -- Research
- Subject
- Fashion -- Forecasting Clothing trade -- Forecasting Advertising -- Fashion Fashion writing
- Date Issued
- 2018
- Date
- 2018
- Type
- Thesis
- Type
- Masters
- Type
- MTech
- Identifier
- http://hdl.handle.net/10948/36026
- Identifier
- vital:33883
- Description
- The aim of this study was to investigate the evolution of Vogue magazine’s role as a fashion authority. The methodology of Foucauldian discourse analysis motivated the enquiry into the establishment of Vogue’s fashion authority over time. The corpus of Vogue’s September Point of View editorials between the period of 1960 and 2015 was divided into four epochs using the period of editorship held by the four editors (Jessica Daves, Diana Vreeland, Grace Mirabella and Anna Wintour). Features of Vogue’s discourse were identified in literature and applied to the corpus using a concurrent embedded mixed methods approach, employing the quantitative and qualitative methods of content and discourse analysis respectively. The analysis suggested that Vogue maintained fashion authority through changing its discourse to suit changes occurring in the field of fashion and the evolving needs and perspectives of the reader. Changes in the way Vogue presents itself; addresses the reader; attributes material, commercial, or intellectual features to fashion; addresses concepts of time and novelty; and negotiates the relationship between American fashion and European or global fashion were the focus of the analysis. The findings conceptualise Vogue’s voice as evolving through the four roles of reporting, fictionalizing, translating and connecting fashion. The shift in Vogue’s voice suggests that the conceptualization of fashion in the publication shifts towards a more abstract and general conception of fashion and reader. The results suggest that Vogue’s fashion discourse shifts from a focus on the specific material features of fashion and craft and the conception of fashion as news and Vogue as a reporter towards a focus on the more abstract, general intellectual and commercial properties of fashion and the conception of fashion as commerce promoting Vogue’s role as a facilitating platform.
- Format
- ix, 158 leaves
- Format
- Publisher
- Nelson Mandela University
- Publisher
- Faculty of Arts
- Language
- English
- Rights
- Nelson Mandela University
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| Thumbnail | File | Description | Size | Format | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| View Details Download | SOURCE1 | Emma Seline Wissink.pdf | 1 MB | Adobe Acrobat PDF | View Details Download |